Die Azoren – São Miguel/Ponta Delgada

Travelling to Ponta Delgada

Wednesday, February 12, 2025, early in the morning – our suitcases were packed and ready, and we were eagerly anticipating our trip to the Azores. We left Tamm and took the S-Bahn and train to Frankfurt. The sky was still gray and wintry, but spring was already in our hearts – after all, we had a week on the green Atlantic island of São Miguel ahead of us.

Frankfurt Airport was bustling with activity, but check-in went smoothly. We took off with TAP Air Portugal – the first leg of the flight took us to Lisbon. The Airbus glided gently through the cloud cover, the service was friendly, and the flight was smooth. We only had a short layover in Lisbon, but everything went like clockwork. We continued across the Atlantic – a calm flight with soft light streaming through the windows and growing anticipation for what was to come.

Towards evening, the island of São Miguel appeared in the vast ocean – a lush green ribbon surrounded by white caps. The landing in Ponta Delgada was a little rough, but the airport was small, manageable, and pleasantly relaxed. After picking up our luggage – which was quick and easy – we collected our rental car: a Toyota Yaris. A little compact, but agile, ideal for the narrow streets and winding roads of the Azores.

Our first impressions on the drive to the Hotel VIP Executive Azores in Ponta Delgada were of the mild Atlantic climate, lush greenery, and a soothing tranquility. Once we arrived at the hotel, we checked in quickly – the lobby was simple and modern, and the staff were friendly and efficient. After the long day of traveling, we treated ourselves to a small snack at the hotel bar – a sandwich, a cool drink, a brief moment of relaxation. Then we went to our room – took a deep breath, looked out the window at the dark expanse of the Atlantic, and finally: off to bed.

Fini – the first day was over – and the magic of the Azores had only just begun.

Go West – Sete Cidades, Mosteiros

Our first full day on São Miguel greeted us with a fresh Atlantic breeze and promising sunshine. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel—with warm bread, fresh cheese, and the typical strong coffee of the Azores—we set off on our adventure into the wild west of the island.
We took the small Toyota Yaris onto the EN1-1A – the road was surprisingly good and the traffic manageable. The first stop wasn’t long in coming: Miradouro do Caminho Novo. Even here, the incomparable landscape revealed itself – deep green crater walls, swaying grass, and in the distance, the waters of Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde were already glistening, and we enjoyed the magnificent view of Sete Cidades.
We continued on the 9-1, which wound its way through hills and forests until we arrived at Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras. And then: that moment. The view suddenly opened up in all its glory to the two crater lakes – the shimmering blue Lagoa Azul and the glowing green Lagoa Verde. It was as if someone had placed two gemstones in the landscape. Breathtaking!
A quick photo stop at Miradouro da Lagoa de Santiago rounded off the panoramic spectacle – like a secret, hidden lake, it lay quietly in its wooded basin. At Lagoa Verde, we stopped at Garoupa Canoe Tours. We didn’t get into the boat, but the short walk across the Canal das Sete Cidades, the narrow bridge connecting the two lakes, was peaceful and idyllic. Ducks quacked on the shore, children threw bread into the water, and the light reflected gently on the surface. A little further on, we discovered Caminho das Ruas, a street with a very unique character – black lava stone houses with white window frames, almost ghostly in their tranquility.

The next viewpoint, Miradouro da Lomba do Vasco, offered a new, dramatic view: this time not of the lakes, but directly out onto the endless Atlantic Ocean. The wind was blowing strongly, and the sound of the surf could be heard up here. Via the remote village of Versea, we finally drove to Farol da Ferraria, a lighthouse on a volcanic headland. Nearby is a warm thermal bath in the sea – we skipped it today, but the view of the rugged coastline alone was spectacular.
We stopped again at Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado – a box seat above the seething sea. Then came the picturesque fishing village of Mosteiros. Not only was the pretty Igreja Paroquial dos Mosteiros church impressive, but also – quite practically – the most modern and cleanest public toilets you could wish for. A walk took us to the coast, Ponta do Castelo. The wind whipped our faces, and spray rose meters high as waves crashed against the rocks with unbridled force. The raw energy of the Atlantic was physically palpable.
The drive along the coast was a highlight in itself – past old windmills, including the Moinho do Pico Vermelho, silent witnesses to times gone by. Back in Ponta Delgada, we parked conveniently in the Parking Avenida, East Entrance. A stroll took us past the Church of São Pedro, directly to the famous Portas da Cidade – the gateway to the city and probably the most famous postcard motif.
The Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião impressed us with its magnificent interior. From the baroque high altar to the artistically painted ceilings – everything seemed to breathe history. Afterwards, we strolled past the Comando da Zona Marítima dos Açores to the old fortress Forte de São Brás, whose walls once protected the island from pirates.
The modern cruise terminal was a little disappointing – large, functional, cool – in stark contrast to the historic old town. But that’s also part of today’s São Miguel.
Finally, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved pizza in Parque Atlântico – not typically Azorean, but delicious and just the thing after a day full of impressions. Back at the hotel, the setting sun cast its last rays on the distant Pico da Barrosa – a silent greeting from the center of the island. We were tired but fulfilled. The west of São Miguel had not disappointed us – on the contrary: it had enchanted us.
Fini – Enchanting West.

North East – Nordeste, Farol do Arnel – Car breakdown included

The next morning began with another delicious breakfast at the hotel – little did we know that this day would be anything but ordinary. Well fortified, we got into our little silver Yaris and headed for the north-east of the island – the ‘wild side’ of São Miguel, known for its dramatic cliffs, quaint villages and breathtaking views.
We made good progress on the EN1-1A and the Eixo Norte-Sul. After Ribeira Grande, we left the motorway and switched to the picturesque coastal route. The first stop was not long in coming: Miradouro de Santa Iria. The wind swept around our ears, dark clouds raced across the sky – and yet the view was magical. The Atlantic Ocean seemed endless, with white lines of spray breaking along the steep coastline.
We continued our journey along the winding, narrow coastal road – the green inland on the right, the turbulent sea on the left. We made a short stop at Parque de merendas da Ribeira Despe-te Que Suas. The small rest area was idyllic, almost deserted. Benches surrounded by ferns and moss invited us to linger.
Next stop: the Miradouro da Boca da Ribeira. Here, too, the Atlantic Ocean showed its full force. And just a few minutes later, we stood stunned at the Piscina Natural Da Boca De Ribeira beach. The rough ocean was raging! The natural pools, normally a place of relaxation, were being washed over by metre-high waves. We stayed at a safe distance – and enjoyed the spectacle. Mighty, impressive, awe-inspiring.
We continued on to Nordeste, the charming little town on the easternmost tip of the island. We parked behind the Church of São Jorge and strolled through the quiet, clean streets. Cobblestones, colourful facades, and the feeling of being far away from the rest of the world.

Fini – off-road mishap

To Ribeira dos Caldeirões via the east to Furnas

After a hearty breakfast, we set off again – São Miguel still had so many corners to explore, and today the north-east was on the agenda. First, we drove through Ponta Delgada, past the large cruise terminal where the impressive Norwegian Breakaway was anchored – a floating colossus that almost dwarfed the surrounding buildings with its size. A majestic sight!
Via the now familiar EN1-1A and Eixo Norte-Sul, we sped past Ribeira Grande – this time without stopping – our destination: the legendary Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões. The road there became increasingly winding, the landscape greener, denser, more unspoilt. Once we arrived at the park, we began with a short visit to the Cascata da Ribeira dos Caldeirões – the waterfall cascaded photogenically over the rocks, surrounded by lush vegetation, moss, ferns and old stone walls. It was a first taste of the natural beauty that awaited us.
Then we went deeper into the Parque Natural. The area is like a living open-air museum: historic water mills, well-tended gardens, wooden footbridges and winding paths. The first water mill, with its thick stone walls, seemed like something from another era, while the second was even more rustic and surrounded by small watercourses.
A little further on, we heard the roar of a mighty waterfall. And sure enough, there, below a steep rock face, a few daring adventurers ventured into the waters. They jumped into the ice-cold water, accompanied by the cheers of their friends. Unbelievable! We continued our walk past a small lake back to the park entrance. Every corner there seemed well thought out, well maintained and yet wild – nature and history in perfect harmony.
We drove on through Nordeste in our new black Yaris, waving to the now familiar Farol do Arnel from a distance (this time from a safe distance!) and finally reached the Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego. A hidden paradise: lush flower beds, palm trees, stone benches and a view that took our breath away. We were all alone – only the sound of the sea and the screeching of the seagulls accompanied us.

Just a few kilometres further on was the next picture-postcard view: Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada. Here, too, was a garden like something out of a painting, with hibiscus, hydrangeas and the endless Atlantic Ocean on the horizon. At Miradouro do Pico Longo, a panorama of the dramatically rugged landscape opened up all the way to Povoação. This view – lush greenery, dark rocks, blue sky – made us stop and marvel again and again. In Povoação itself, we only made a short stop at Porta do Povoamento, strolled through the small harbour and let the charming coastal town sink in for a moment. Then we set course for Furnas – the ground was already steaming in our minds.
We parked at Parking Caldeiras Vulcânicas. From there, we started our tour of the steaming underworld: Caldeiras, the Jardim Público da Courela, the ‘boiling’ Caldeira de Pero Botelho, the rustic cottage Chalex tia merces and the impressive Aqua Santa with 96.2 °C – all evidence of the unbridled power bubbling beneath São Miguel. The smell of sulphur hung in the air, hot steam hissed from the ground – fascinating and a little eerie.
At Lake Furnas, we made a detour to the fumaroles, the steaming holes in the ground that looked like mysterious cauldrons from a fantasy film. Here, too, life was bubbling away right under our feet. Later, on the way back via the EN1-A1, we made a short detour to Vila Franca do Campo and Lagoa before finally rolling into Ponta Delgada. Once again, we parked comfortably in the Parking Avenida.
A quick snack in the cosy Café Royal satisfied our initial hunger – then it was back to the hotel. We ended the evening in the hotel lobby – this time with a Liga Portugal Betclic football match: Santa Clara against Benfica Lisbon. The game was being played just a few streets away, and we could almost hear the stadium. Lisbon won 1–0 – certainly bitter for the home fans, but for us it was the perfect end to a long, exciting day.
A day full of natural wonders, sweeping views and steaming earth.

Fini – São Miguel had enchanted us once again.

Visit to Ribeira Grande, Cascata do Salto do Cabrito to Senhora da Paz

xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Over Pico da Barrosa, Caldeira Velha, Rabo da Peixe to Miradouro das Cumeeiras, Sete Cidades

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To Sete Cidades, Vista do Rei viewpoint and Mosteiros

A bittersweet farewell day on São Miguel – with a dramatic ending
After a hearty breakfast, as always, we set off one last time towards the west – where the natural beauty of São Miguel is at its most stunning. Our destination was Parque Estacionamento Lagoa do Canário, a hidden forest car park in the middle of the island’s lush greenery. From here, a short walk through mystical moss-covered trees led us to Miradouro da Vista do Rei – one of the most famous viewpoints in the Azores.
And the name lived up to its promise: the view of the two crater lakes, Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul, glistening like two jewels deep in the volcanic caldera, was simply overwhelming. The place lay still, only the wind rustling through the grass – and the backdrop looked like something out of a dream.
Nearby: the Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel. Once a luxurious five-star establishment, it now inspires the imagination as a lost place. Crumbling walls, open floors, plants reclaiming their space – a scene straight out of a post-apocalyptic film. But somehow fascinating.
Our next stop was Pico das Camarinhas, which offers a magnificent view down to Ferraria Bay – wild, dramatic, rugged. The Atlantic Ocean raged against the lava rocks, the spray splashed high, and the sun painted highlights on the water.
The last stop of the day – and of the trip – took us to Mosteiros. At Sunset Poço da Pedra, a popular spot right on the coast, we wanted to end the day with a peaceful sunset. But things turned out differently.

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxxxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxx

Six-day extension on Sao Miguel

xxxx