The Azores – São Miguel/Ponta Delgada

Travelling to Ponta Delgada

Wednesday, February 12, 2025, early in the morning – our suitcases were packed and ready, and we were eagerly anticipating our trip to the Azores. We left Tamm and took the S-Bahn and train to Frankfurt. The sky was still gray and wintry, but spring was already in our hearts – after all, we had a week on the green Atlantic island of São Miguel ahead of us.

Frankfurt Airport was bustling with activity, but check-in went smoothly. We took off with TAP Air Portugal – the first leg of the flight took us to Lisbon. The Airbus glided gently through the cloud cover, the service was friendly, and the flight was smooth. We only had a short layover in Lisbon, but everything went like clockwork. We continued across the Atlantic – a calm flight with soft light streaming through the windows and growing anticipation for what was to come.

Towards evening, the island of São Miguel appeared in the vast ocean – a lush green ribbon surrounded by white caps. The landing in Ponta Delgada was a little rough, but the airport was small, manageable, and pleasantly relaxed. After picking up our luggage – which was quick and easy – we collected our rental car: a Toyota Yaris. A little compact, but agile, ideal for the narrow streets and winding roads of the Azores.

Our first impressions on the drive to the Hotel VIP Executive Azores in Ponta Delgada were of the mild Atlantic climate, lush greenery, and a soothing tranquility. Once we arrived at the hotel, we checked in quickly – the lobby was simple and modern, and the staff were friendly and efficient. After the long day of traveling, we treated ourselves to a small snack at the hotel bar – a sandwich, a cool drink, a brief moment of relaxation. Then we went to our room – took a deep breath, looked out the window at the dark expanse of the Atlantic, and finally: off to bed.

Fini – the first day was over – and the magic of the Azores had only just begun.

Go West – Sete Cidades, Mosteiros

Our first full day on São Miguel greeted us with a fresh Atlantic breeze and promising sunshine. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel—with warm bread, fresh cheese, and the typical strong coffee of the Azores—we set off on our adventure into the wild west of the island.
We took the small Toyota Yaris onto the EN1-1A – the road was surprisingly good and the traffic manageable. The first stop wasn’t long in coming: Miradouro do Caminho Novo. Even here, the incomparable landscape revealed itself – deep green crater walls, swaying grass, and in the distance, the waters of Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde were already glistening, and we enjoyed the magnificent view of Sete Cidades.
We continued on the 9-1, which wound its way through hills and forests until we arrived at Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras. And then: that moment. The view suddenly opened up in all its glory to the two crater lakes – the shimmering blue Lagoa Azul and the glowing green Lagoa Verde. It was as if someone had placed two gemstones in the landscape. Breathtaking!
A quick photo stop at Miradouro da Lagoa de Santiago rounded off the panoramic spectacle – like a secret, hidden lake, it lay quietly in its wooded basin. At Lagoa Verde, we stopped at Garoupa Canoe Tours. We didn’t get into the boat, but the short walk across the Canal das Sete Cidades, the narrow bridge connecting the two lakes, was peaceful and idyllic. Ducks quacked on the shore, children threw bread into the water, and the light reflected gently on the surface. A little further on, we discovered Caminho das Ruas, a street with a very unique character – black lava stone houses with white window frames, almost ghostly in their tranquility.

The next viewpoint, Miradouro da Lomba do Vasco, offered a new, dramatic view: this time not of the lakes, but directly out onto the endless Atlantic Ocean. The wind was blowing strongly, and the sound of the surf could be heard up here. Via the remote village of Versea, we finally drove to Farol da Ferraria, a lighthouse on a volcanic headland. Nearby is a warm thermal bath in the sea – we skipped it today, but the view of the rugged coastline alone was spectacular.
We stopped again at Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado – a box seat above the seething sea. Then came the picturesque fishing village of Mosteiros. Not only was the pretty Igreja Paroquial dos Mosteiros church impressive, but also – quite practically – the most modern and cleanest public toilets you could wish for. A walk took us to the coast, Ponta do Castelo. The wind whipped our faces, and spray rose meters high as waves crashed against the rocks with unbridled force. The raw energy of the Atlantic was physically palpable.
The drive along the coast was a highlight in itself – past old windmills, including the Moinho do Pico Vermelho, silent witnesses to times gone by. Back in Ponta Delgada, we parked conveniently in the Parking Avenida, East Entrance. A stroll took us past the Church of São Pedro, directly to the famous Portas da Cidade – the gateway to the city and probably the most famous postcard motif.
The Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião impressed us with its magnificent interior. From the baroque high altar to the artistically painted ceilings – everything seemed to breathe history. Afterwards, we strolled past the Comando da Zona Marítima dos Açores to the old fortress Forte de São Brás, whose walls once protected the island from pirates.
The modern cruise terminal was a little disappointing – large, functional, cool – in stark contrast to the historic old town. But that’s also part of today’s São Miguel.
Finally, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved pizza in Parque Atlântico – not typically Azorean, but delicious and just the thing after a day full of impressions. Back at the hotel, the setting sun cast its last rays on the distant Pico da Barrosa – a silent greeting from the center of the island. We were tired but fulfilled. The west of São Miguel had not disappointed us – on the contrary: it had enchanted us.
Fini – Enchanting West.

North East – Nordeste, Farol do Arnel – Car breakdown included

The next morning began with another delicious breakfast at the hotel – little did we know that this day would be anything but ordinary. Well fortified, we got into our little silver Yaris and headed for the north-east of the island – the ‘wild side’ of São Miguel, known for its dramatic cliffs, quaint villages and breathtaking views.
We made good progress on the EN1-1A and the Eixo Norte-Sul. After Ribeira Grande, we left the motorway and switched to the picturesque coastal route. The first stop was not long in coming: Miradouro de Santa Iria. The wind swept around our ears, dark clouds raced across the sky – and yet the view was magical. The Atlantic Ocean seemed endless, with white lines of spray breaking along the steep coastline.
We continued our journey along the winding, narrow coastal road – the green inland on the right, the turbulent sea on the left. We made a short stop at Parque de merendas da Ribeira Despe-te Que Suas. The small rest area was idyllic, almost deserted. Benches surrounded by ferns and moss invited us to linger.
Next stop: the Miradouro da Boca da Ribeira. Here, too, the Atlantic Ocean showed its full force. And just a few minutes later, we stood stunned at the Piscina Natural Da Boca De Ribeira beach. The rough ocean was raging! The natural pools, normally a place of relaxation, were being washed over by metre-high waves. We stayed at a safe distance – and enjoyed the spectacle. Mighty, impressive, awe-inspiring.
We continued on to Nordeste, the charming little town on the easternmost tip of the island. We parked behind the Church of São Jorge and strolled through the quiet, clean streets. Cobblestones, colourful facades, and the feeling of being far away from the rest of the world.

Fini – off-road mishap

To Ribeira dos Caldeirões via the east to Furnas

After a hearty breakfast, we set off again – São Miguel still had so many corners to explore, and today the north-east was on the agenda. First, we drove through Ponta Delgada, past the large cruise terminal where the impressive Norwegian Breakaway was anchored – a floating colossus that almost dwarfed the surrounding buildings with its size. A majestic sight!
Via the now familiar EN1-1A and Eixo Norte-Sul, we sped past Ribeira Grande – this time without stopping – our destination: the legendary Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões. The road there became increasingly winding, the landscape greener, denser, more unspoilt. Once we arrived at the park, we began with a short visit to the Cascata da Ribeira dos Caldeirões – the waterfall cascaded photogenically over the rocks, surrounded by lush vegetation, moss, ferns and old stone walls. It was a first taste of the natural beauty that awaited us.
Then we went deeper into the Parque Natural. The area is like a living open-air museum: historic water mills, well-tended gardens, wooden footbridges and winding paths. The first water mill, with its thick stone walls, seemed like something from another era, while the second was even more rustic and surrounded by small watercourses.
A little further on, we heard the roar of a mighty waterfall. And sure enough, there, below a steep rock face, a few daring adventurers ventured into the waters. They jumped into the ice-cold water, accompanied by the cheers of their friends. Unbelievable! We continued our walk past a small lake back to the park entrance. Every corner there seemed well thought out, well maintained and yet wild – nature and history in perfect harmony.
We drove on through Nordeste in our new black Yaris, waving to the now familiar Farol do Arnel from a distance (this time from a safe distance!) and finally reached the Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego. A hidden paradise: lush flower beds, palm trees, stone benches and a view that took our breath away. We were all alone – only the sound of the sea and the screeching of the seagulls accompanied us.

Just a few kilometres further on was the next picture-postcard view: Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada. Here, too, was a garden like something out of a painting, with hibiscus, hydrangeas and the endless Atlantic Ocean on the horizon. At Miradouro do Pico Longo, a panorama of the dramatically rugged landscape opened up all the way to Povoação. This view – lush greenery, dark rocks, blue sky – made us stop and marvel again and again. In Povoação itself, we only made a short stop at Porta do Povoamento, strolled through the small harbour and let the charming coastal town sink in for a moment. Then we set course for Furnas – the ground was already steaming in our minds.
We parked at Parking Caldeiras Vulcânicas. From there, we started our tour of the steaming underworld: Caldeiras, the Jardim Público da Courela, the ‘boiling’ Caldeira de Pero Botelho, the rustic cottage Chalex tia merces and the impressive Aqua Santa with 96.2 °C – all evidence of the unbridled power bubbling beneath São Miguel. The smell of sulphur hung in the air, hot steam hissed from the ground – fascinating and a little eerie.
At Lake Furnas, we made a detour to the fumaroles, the steaming holes in the ground that looked like mysterious cauldrons from a fantasy film. Here, too, life was bubbling away right under our feet. Later, on the way back via the EN1-A1, we made a short detour to Vila Franca do Campo and Lagoa before finally rolling into Ponta Delgada. Once again, we parked comfortably in the Parking Avenida.
A quick snack in the cosy Café Royal satisfied our initial hunger – then it was back to the hotel. We ended the evening in the hotel lobby – this time with a Liga Portugal Betclic football match: Santa Clara against Benfica Lisbon. The game was being played just a few streets away, and we could almost hear the stadium. Lisbon won 1–0 – certainly bitter for the home fans, but for us it was the perfect end to a long, exciting day.
A day full of natural wonders, sweeping views and steaming earth.

Fini – São Miguel had enchanted us once again.

Visit to Ribeira Grande, Cascata do Salto do Cabrito to Senhora da Paz

After a hearty breakfast, we set off in high spirits – our destination for the day: a varied mix of waterfalls, coastal views and historic sites. The sky was still overcast, but that didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

We followed the EN1-1A and the Eixo towards Ribeira Grande, the island’s second-largest town. Once there, we left the car behind and strolled through the charming streets. Ribeira Grande surprised us with its lively centre, stylish old buildings and a wonderful blend of old-town charm and sea air. We particularly liked the long sandy beach and the promenade – a perfect place to unwind.

We carried on to the Cascata do Salto do Cabrito. You could hear the rush of the water even from the car park – but the path there was not for the faint-hearted. A steep, partly slippery descent led us down into a green gorge, and suddenly the view opened up onto the impressive waterfall: a powerful, white jet plunging into the depths between moss-covered rocks. Surrounded by dense greenery and rugged rocks, this place seemed almost magical – a hidden gem in the middle of the island’s jungle.

We then drove further up to Pico da Barrosa. The closer we got to the summit, the thicker the fog became. At the miradouros – Bela Vista and Lagoa do Fogo – we were standing in almost complete obscurity. Clouds rolled in thick swathes across the road; the view was virtually non-existent. The silhouettes of the mountains seemed almost ghostly – somehow mystical, even though we unfortunately didn’t get to see the famous crater lakes today.

Our route then took us down to the south coast, towards Vila Franca do Campo. Our destination: arguably the most beautiful viewpoint in the area, the Miradouro da Nossa Senhora da Paz. The white pilgrimage church sat enthroned on a hill, accessible via a monumental staircase adorned with ornate tiled murals. Once at the top, we were rewarded with a fantastic panoramic view: the rooftops of Vila Franca, the deep-blue sea, the small offshore island – a sight straight out of a dream.

After this spiritual moment, we made a couple of short stops: First at Praia de Água D’Alto, a wonderfully wide beach with dark volcanic sand, then briefly at Praia das Milícias, where locals were trying their hand at surfing. Back in Ponta Delgada, we conveniently parked right in front of the Portugal Telecom building. A short walk took us to Forte de São Brás, whose massive walls still exude the spirit of times gone by.

At Café Royal, one of our favourite spots, we treated ourselves to a light snack and watched the hustle and bustle on the street. Afterwards, we went for a short stroll around town – past the classic sights, which we now greeted almost like old friends: Portas da Cidade, Igreja Matriz, the Town Hall square and the bustling harbour.

In the late afternoon, we finally made our way back to the hotel. Behind us lay a day full of contrasts – pure nature, spiritual moments, a bit of city life and plenty of impressions.

Fini – A lovely day.

Over Pico da Barrosa, Caldeira Velha, Rabo da Peixe to Miradouro das Cumeeiras, Sete Cidades

After breakfast, we set off full of anticipation – the day promised the very best of nature. The road wound its way up to Pico da Barrosa, past steaming slopes and cloud-shrouded mountain ranges. And then: the view from the Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa – finally a clear view of Lagoa do Fogo! The deep turquoise water shimmered in the midst of the wild crater basin. A breathtaking moment – all the magic of São Miguel at our feet.

We stopped briefly at the Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo itself, where the rain was just starting to fall. In this mystical atmosphere, we carried on to the Centro de Interpretação Ambiental da Caldeira Velha. Despite the weather, we explored the park with its steaming springs, moss-covered rocks and exotic plants. It smelled of sulphur; everything was a rich green, almost primeval. The hot waterfalls were steaming and a few intrepid souls were bravely bathing in the warm water – we contented ourselves with watching. For just one euro admission, we gained access to the park; bathing would have cost 10 euros. At the information centre, we learnt a lot about volcanism, flora and fauna. An exciting place – and despite the rain, a real experience!

We then drove on to Rabo de Peixe, a fishing village with a character all of its own. During a short stroll through the narrow streets, we marvelled at the town’s unique setting – dramatically perched on cliffs above the sea, with fishing boats in the harbour and narrow, winding streets.

The route then took us back up into the hills – steeply upwards to the Miradouro das Cumeeiras. And there we were treated to a view that was almost breathtaking: Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde shimmered deep down in the crater, framed by rolling hills and lush green forests. The walk along the ridge was long but well worth it – magnificent views accompanied us at almost every turn.

On the way back, we made a short detour to the Túnel das Sete Cidades – an almost hidden spot where nature and technology meet. We continued along the coastal road towards Sete Cidades. Along the way, we repeatedly enjoyed the sweeping view of the open Atlantic, wild and fascinating.

In Sete Cidades itself, we were once again struck by the row of black houses – sixteen identical buildings, all in the same style, somehow mysterious. We popped into Azores For All – Kayak & Paddle Rental for a quick enquiry, but paddling wasn’t possible today – the water level was too high. We took a final stroll along the Canal das Sete Cidades before driving to the Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras – a perfect end to this day of stunning scenery. The view of the crater lakes and the winding village was simply spectacular.

On the way back to Ponta Delgada, past the airport, we stopped off at Café Royal as we so often do. A light snack, a final espresso – and then a quick stroll through the town. Back at the hotel in the evening, we reflected on the day’s experiences. Rain, sun, steam, volcanoes, the sea – all in a single day.

Fini – It was lovely.

To Sete Cidades, Vista do Rei viewpoint and Mosteiros

A bittersweet farewell day on São Miguel – with a dramatic ending
After a hearty breakfast, as always, we set off one last time towards the west – where the natural beauty of São Miguel is at its most stunning. Our destination was Parque Estacionamento Lagoa do Canário, a hidden forest car park in the middle of the island’s lush greenery. From here, a short walk through mystical moss-covered trees led us to Miradouro da Vista do Rei – one of the most famous viewpoints in the Azores.
And the name lived up to its promise: the view of the two crater lakes, Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul, glistening like two jewels deep in the volcanic caldera, was simply overwhelming. The place lay still, only the wind rustling through the grass – and the backdrop looked like something out of a dream.
Nearby: the Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel. Once a luxurious five-star establishment, it now inspires the imagination as a lost place. Crumbling walls, open floors, plants reclaiming their space – a scene straight out of a post-apocalyptic film. But somehow fascinating.
Our next stop was Pico das Camarinhas, which offers a magnificent view down to Ferraria Bay – wild, dramatic, rugged. The Atlantic Ocean raged against the lava rocks, the spray splashed high, and the sun painted highlights on the water.
The last stop of the day – and of the trip – took us to Mosteiros. At Sunset Poço da Pedra, a popular spot right on the coast, we wanted to end the day with a peaceful sunset. But things turned out differently.

Six-day extension on São Miguel

A new day, a new chapter – an extension, a new car, a return to Mosteiros

An early start at 5 am. Ponta Delgada was still fast asleep when I set off for the airport. The little Toyota Aygo – my trusty companion over the last few days – was handed back on time. And then: a new set of wheels! A quick detour to the Europcar counter, a charming chat, a €10 upgrade, and suddenly there was a Jeep Renegade. Powerful, comfortable, with significantly more ground clearance – just the thing for São Miguel’s mountainous tracks and steep coastal roads. What a difference!

First of all, we had breakfast at Parque Atlântico to recharge our batteries – familiar surroundings, reassuring after the turbulent last 24 hours. This was followed by a short but impressive visit to the Estádio de São Miguel – home of Santa Clara, right in the heart of Ponta Delgada. It was quiet, almost solemn – a place of emotion, completely without noise.

We then took the familiar route to Ribeira Grande, including a brief visit to the lovely beach promenade and a breath of Atlantic air. We quickly headed back to the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo, where Inge continued to be very well looked after. Visiting hours are strict: patients may only be visited between 12 noon and 2 pm and 6 pm and 8 pm. In between, it’s a matter of patience.

In the afternoon, a very special visit was on the agenda: Mosteiros. More precisely: Sunset Poço da Pedra. There I met Caroline, a warm-hearted, dedicated member of staff who had acted calmly and helpfully during yesterday’s emergency. I presented her with a small gift – a gesture of gratitude. Her efforts yesterday were worth their weight in gold.

As I was now travelling by jeep, I dared to do something that had seemed too risky in the Aygo: the steep descent to Termas da Ferraria. A narrow road winds dramatically down to the coast here. Once at the bottom: steaming hot springs, the wild Atlantic, and a place where earth and water merge in a mysterious way.

In the evening, then, the second visit to the hospital. Inge was in good spirits – despite everything. The care remained first-class, the staff friendly and attentive. A little confidence returned.

A long day drew to a close – full of contrasts, encounters and a glimmer of hope.

Fini – With confidence.

A day marked by the forces of nature and compassion – Pico da Barrosa and a visit to the hospital

After a quiet breakfast at the hotel, bathed in the soft light of the dawning day, I set off once more into the central mountainous region of the island of São Miguel – my destination: the imposing Pico da Barrosa, one of the island’s highest points and, on a clear day, renowned for its spectacular view over Lagoa do Fogo.

But today, the weather had other ideas.

The higher I drove, the thicker the fog became. The landscape visibly vanished into the grey, trees dissolved into shadows in the distance, and soon I could see only a few metres ahead. This was accompanied by a violent storm that tugged at the wing mirrors and made the car shake with every gust. Branches lay on the road, some of them freshly blown down – a clear sign of just how serious the weather conditions were at these altitudes. The mountain road, usually so picturesque, suddenly seemed inhospitable and almost a little eerie. Yet there was something fascinating about this raw force of nature – a raw, honest energy.

Unfortunately, the planned stop at the Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo had to be cancelled – there was absolutely nothing to see there except a thick, milky white. Even Pico da Barrosa itself – usually towering proudly over the island’s ridge – was hidden today behind thick swathes of fog.

After this wild weather experience, I made my way back safely to Ponta Delgada and paid another visit to the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo. As always, visiting hours were strictly regulated, but I was able to keep Inge company for a while and describe my latest impressions to her – even if the weather today was certainly not a classic holiday highlight.

The rest of the day was spent on the phone – with the ADAC, insurance companies, family – and organising the coming days. A rather quiet, yet intense day. One on which nature was loud – and we fell silent.

Fini – Stormy, foggy, but with a clear direction.

A day full of contrasts – picture-postcard views, the smell of dairy products and hospital routine

After a hearty breakfast, I set off again in the morning towards Sete Cidades. My destination was one of the Azores’ most famous viewpoints – the Miradouro da Vista do Rei.

This time, the spot welcomed me with a brilliant blue sky, crisp air and a fantastic view. A stark contrast to my foggy visit a few days earlier. The two crater lakes, Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde, glowed in the sunlight in their characteristic colours – emerald green and deep blue. Add to that the lush green of the surrounding hills and the picturesque silhouette of the village of Sete Cidades nestled within the former volcanic crater – a real postcard scene that left us in awe.

Behind us lay the Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel, the derelict luxury hotel from the 1980s that has been reclaimed by the jungle. Already familiar, yet always impressive in its morbid, almost mystical aura – a lost place steeped in history, silently watching over the valley.

In the early afternoon, another visit to the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo was on the agenda. Inge was in good spirits and delighted by the brief but intense encounters that added a touch of colour to the hospital’s daily routine.

After the visit, we drove towards the Relva industrial estate, to the Unileite dairy – or officially: Unileite – Union Coop. Agricultural Dairy Prod. Island Of Milk S. Miguel CRL. Even as we approached, there was a distinct smell of milk and whey in the air. This is where the fresh milk from São Miguel’s cows is processed – into butter, yoghurt, cheese and much more. Although there was no official tour, a small shop sold local produce, and it was fascinating to gain an insight into the economic side of the island. “Island of Milk” is more than just a slogan – an entire region here lives off the dairy industry.

From there, I set off on a short exploration to Antena Marconi, an old, abandoned radio station high above the coast. The partly dilapidated buildings and remains of the antennas bear witness to a time when long-distance connections to the whole world were still being established here. An almost forgotten place with a view of the endless expanse of the Atlantic – somehow melancholic and fascinating at the same time.

To round off the day, I paid Inge one last visit for today at the hospital, before ending the evening with a cosy dinner at Parque Atlântico. A mix of panoramic views, industrial heritage, retro ruins and family care – a typically varied day on São Miguel.

Fini – With clear views, long walks and little joys.

A day spent between prayer, the Atlantic and everyday rituals

After a leisurely breakfast at Parque Atlântico, where the aroma of fresh pastries and coffee roused me from my sleep, I set off on my day trip with a spiritual destination in mind: the Igreja Nossa Senhora de Fátima in Lajedo. The modern church, with its simple, clean-lined architecture and tower visible from afar, looks almost sculptural against the rolling landscape. A place of tranquillity – with a panoramic view over the surrounding countryside down to the coast. A brief moment of reflection and a silent thank you for everything that is going well, even in turbulent times.

I then continued south on the well-maintained EN1-1A towards the charming Porto de Pescas da Caloura. The little harbour is a real hidden gem: colourful fishing boats bob in the turquoise-blue water, seagulls screech above the waves, and right next to it, the Farol do Porto de Pescas da Caloura rises up – a modest lighthouse, but photogenic and full of character. Right next to it, the Piscina de Caloura, a natural seawater pool, invites you to take a dip – though today, it was simply a sight to behold. For the Atlantic was wild and powerful, with metre-high waves crashing against the rocks. Impressive!

In the afternoon, I made a brief stop in Ribeira Grande. The town presented itself today in a particularly dramatic light: spectacular cloud formations swept across the sky, which constantly shifted between sunshine and rain showers – a play of light and shadow over the colonial architecture, the squares and the endlessly roaring sea in the background. A short stroll through the old town allowed me to soak up the special atmosphere that winter lends to the Atlantic.

As every day, a visit to the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo was naturally on the agenda again today. The fixed visiting hours gave the day structure, and it was lovely to see how Inge was gradually settling in better and how the routine gave her a sense of security. Towards evening, I returned to Parque Atlântico – by now almost our second living room – and we rounded off the day with a simple but hearty dinner. A day full of contrasts: spiritual tranquillity, wild nature, familiar everyday life.

Fini – With heart, wind and waves.

A day amidst fire, water and clouds – São Miguel reveals its wild side

The day began quietly, almost as a matter of routine, with a hearty breakfast at the hotel – fresh coffee, some fruit, bread and cheese. We then headed east towards Furnas, a place that pulsates like a heart of fire on São Miguel. Twenty-three warm to hot mineral springs, some of them proper geysers, spew water reaching temperatures of up to 98 degrees into the steaming air with impressive force. The mixture of the smell of sulphur, hissing fountains and constantly bubbling pools makes you feel as though you’re on another planet – a fascinating spectacle of nature.

From there, the route took me back to Ponta Delgada, to what had by now become a familiar part of the day: visiting Inge in hospital. Despite the strict visiting hours between 12 and 2 pm, it was heartening to see how she was stabilising step by step – a smile, a bit of small talk, a good sign.

After the visit, dark clouds rolled in from the Atlantic, accompanied by a strong wind. Nevertheless, I didn’t let that stop me and drove along the north coast – a dramatic spectacle of light and storm. My destination was once again the west of the island: Mosteiros, or more precisely, the view from Sunset Poço da Pedra. The extremely high swell today was almost menacing, yet also hypnotically beautiful. Spray shot metres high against the black lava rocks – a dance of water, wind and stone, typical of the Atlantic winter.

Afterwards, the road led me to Sete Cidades, where the usually peaceful Lagoa Azul had burst its banks. The water stood high in the meadow, flooding small paths – a rare, impressive sight. As I drove on to the Miradouro Lagoa de Santiago, the clouds swallowed me up; visibility was less than ten metres. The car park at Lagoa do Canário was completely deserted today – eerily quiet. The nearby Miradouro da Vista do Rei was also deserted, just like the ruins of the Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel, which nature is slowly reclaiming. An encounter with silence, with transience.

In the late afternoon, I made my way back via the Miradouro do Caminho Novo – one last, atmospheric view of the Atlantic – and drove on to the hospital, where Inge was continuing to make progress. It was lovely to see how well she was being looked after and how bravely she was coping with the situation. I rounded off the evening, as I have done so often these days, with dinner at the Parque Atlântico. A familiar place amidst all the forces of nature – warm, lively, down-to-earth.

Fini – A day full of elements: fire, water, storm – and hope.

A day of farewells – sunshine, hope and a final glance

The morning began spectacularly as a glowing sunrise unfolded across the sky above São Miguel – a riot of colour in shades of gold, orange and soft violet, quietly heralding our impending departure. After breakfast, we headed into the centre of Ponta Delgada one last time. Today, the AIDA had docked at the cruise terminal, so the town was bustling with activity. Souvenir shops, cafés, strollers – everything seemed to be in motion. I enjoyed a longer stroll through the town, past the familiar sights: the Portas da Cidade, the Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião, the Forte de São Brás.

Afterwards, my path led me to the southern tip of the town, to the Farol de Santa Clara, an often-overlooked but particularly atmospheric spot. The morning light glinted off the Atlantic, whilst seagulls circled above the lighthouse – a quiet, dignified moment.

I then walked along Avenida da Nordela to what had by now become a daily routine: a visit to Inge at the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo. She was in good spirits, a little more relaxed today – perhaps also looking forward to tomorrow’s journey home.

After the visiting hours – strictly adhered to, as always – I set off for the mountains. The weather was clear and sunny, perfect conditions to enjoy once again one of the island’s most beautiful views: from the Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa over the shimmering Lagoa do Fogo. The lake lay nestled like a jewel in the green crater landscape, the wind gentle, the view crystal clear. It was the perfect place to pause for a moment. I made a brief stop at the nearby Casa da Água trail point – a beautiful symbol of what has characterised this journey: movement, nature, water, a new beginning.

In the afternoon, it was time for the final visit to the hospital. Today, the doctor commissioned by the ADAC arrived; he was to accompany Inge on the return flight the following day. A calm, competent man – his presence immediately instilled a sense of security. Thumbs up to the ADAC! Together, we discussed the final details of the transfer: collection from the hospital, assistance at the airport, and medical support all the way to Ludwigsburg. Everything was sorted, a reassuring feeling.

In the evening, back at the hotel, I treated myself to one last pizza at the bar. It was quiet, almost solemn. The suitcases were already packed in the room. One last glance from the balcony – Pico da Barrosa in the evening light, a fitting farewell.

Fini – tomorrow the journey home begins – with a tear in one eye and gratitude in the other.

The Journey Home – With Care, Discipline and a Touch of Adventure

It was a short night – at 2.30 am, the alarm went off without mercy. Still in the semi-darkness of the early morning hours, I drove to the Hospital do Divino Espírito Santo, where the final preparations for Inge’s return journey were already underway. Despite the strict visiting hours, a brief farewell visit was possible – a few words of encouragement, a last glance, a hand that was squeezed firmly.

At 4.15 am, the ambulance arrived, a Sanka, which took Inge safely and punctually to Ponta Delgada Airport. The ADAC doctor, who was to accompany her throughout the journey, was already waiting there. His professionalism and calm were worth their weight in gold – he not only kept a close eye on her medical care but also had all the organisational details firmly under control. Three seats on the plane had been reserved for Inge – so that she could travel lying down and undisturbed. Hats off to such meticulous preparation!

Right on time at 6.30 am, the plane took off for Lisbon. Inge was well looked after, and the flight was smooth. Then, in Lisbon, a slight shock: despite the reservation, her seat had been taken by other passengers. But the ADAC doctor remained persistent, negotiated, explained – and prevailed. Once again, three seats were made available. Hats off to that diplomatic skill!

The flight to Frankfurt departed 15 minutes late and also proceeded without complications. Inge was exhausted but stable. A Red Cross ambulance was already waiting at the airport to take us, along with our luggage, to the hospital in Ludwigsburg – our final destination. Admission went smoothly. Inge was now in the hands of good doctors – well looked after and cared for.

The ADAC doctor took his leave discreetly and continued his journey towards Cologne. We, however, looked back on a journey full of impressions, challenges, the forces of nature, warmth – and an unplanned medical adventure that was mastered with great dedication and humanity.

Fini – The end of a very special trip to the Azores.