Saar-Moselle-Rhine cycle tour
Our bike tour started on May 4 in Saarbrücken and ended on May 12, 2023 in Koblenz.
Table of Contents
Anticipation and preparation for our bike tour with the eBike
At the beginning of the year, we decided to go on a cycle tour at the beginning of May. The start and finish of the trip should be easy to reach by train, including luggage transport from stage to stage. We again opted for e-bikes as hire bikes. Due to our good experience with the cycle tour provider Rückenwind, we decided in favour of this provider, whose Saar-Moselle-Rhine cycle tour was an attractive offer for us. The framework conditions were right and the trip was quickly booked.
The anticipation was great and so was the excitement of what awaited us. We were able to experience the Saar with its French flair and industrial history, cycle past the Völklingen Ironworks (World Heritage Site) and the famous Saar Loop. We could see the change in the landscape as the Saar flowed into the Moselle. Wine-growing increasingly dominated the landscape as we travelled on. The winding Moselle cycle path took us from the Roman city of Trier to famous Moselle towns such as Bernkastel-Kues, Traben-Trarbach and Cochem. We savoured light, fruity Moselle wines as we strolled through interesting wine villages. In Koblenz, we were able to enjoy the sweeping view over the magnificent Rhine Valley at the Deutsches Eck and reflected on the past beautiful and eventful days of our cycle tour before heading home again.
The arrival
We travelled here by train. The S-Bahn took us to Stuttgart underground station. As a SWEG strike had been announced, we decided not to change to a regional express train in Ludwigsburg. This would have taken us directly to the still existing terminus station in Stuttgart. So we had to take a breathtakingly long walk to the provisional terminus station. Good thing we had pedometers with us!
The ICE 690 to Mannheim started on time to the second! Oh dear, what now? Halfway through the journey, the train stopped in the middle of a tunnel. 15 minutes later it finally continued. Of course we missed our connecting train in Mannheim. After an hour’s delay, we finally took the RE1 to Saarbrücken. The Deutsche Bahn adventure!
In Saarbrücken, tram 128 took us 3 stops near our hotel. The short walk to the Hotel Domicil Leidinger at Mainzer Straße 10-12 gave us a first impression of Saarbrücken. After checking in, we were able to collect our hire bikes. During the first test ride in the underground car park, Inge’s bike made strange noises and only one charger was supplied. After contacting the Velociped hotline, Mr Mayer from the service department called back promptly. The problem, a warped mudguard, was solved immediately over the phone. We were also informed that only one charger was included in the scope of delivery. The service from Velociped was first class!
Sightseeing Saarbrücken
Now we could finally explore the city. We could still feel the French flair. The city’s changing national affiliation has left its mark everywhere. The town hall, St John’s Basilica and St Ludwig’s Church were the first stops on the tour, which continued past the old town hall to the castle. From the castle garden we could see the castle church and had a good view of the state theatre above the Saar. We walked past the castle church over the Old Saar Bridge into the pedestrian zone and reached Tante Moya. There we enjoyed our schnitzel and a pleasant chat with a smart Kazakh from Kassel who was travelling on business. At 47, he was raving about his one-year-old son. By 10 pm, we were ready for the crate.
Warmup – Trip to France to Sarreguemines/Rémelfing – 50km
After a quiet and restful night at the Hotel Domicil Leidinger and a hearty breakfast, we set off on an excursion to neighbouring France, as we had already received our rental bikes a day earlier.
The first stage took us left of the Saar along the towpath towards the French border. An inconspicuous border stone showed us that we had successfully crossed the border. We continued along the Saar to Sarreguemines/Saargmünd. Here we enjoyed the marvellous view of the historic buildings on the other side of the river. After a short rest, we cycled past lock N°25 to Rémelfing, our destination for today. We took another look at the Église Saint-Pierre church and then turned back towards Saarbrücken. After a stopover in Sarreguemines, we enjoyed a French cake and cappuccino. Invigorated, we headed back to Saarbrücken. A short stop under a bridge protected us from the unexpected rain shower. Towards evening and with 47 kilometres more on the clock, we reached our hotel dry.
We visited the Europacenter and satisfied our hunger at ‘Die Kartoffel’ with delicious potatoes and fried eggs. The warm-up was a success and we were looking forward to the days ahead.
Stage 1 from Saarbrücken to Mettlach – 59km
As soon as we were ready to go, we cycled along the Saar cycle path through the former coal mining area to Völklingen. The ‘Völklinger Hütte’ would have been worth a stopover, as it is currently one of 33 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Germany!
Völklinger Ironworks
The Völklinger Hütte is a fascinating industrial monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was once one of the largest ironworks in the world and played a decisive role in the industrial revolution of the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, the Völklinger Hütte is an impressive museum offering insights into the history of industrial production.
The route took us past Saarlouis, through picturesque landscapes and idyllic villages such as Rehlingen, Merzig and Fremersdorf, until we finally arrived in Dreisbach. We could only see the treetop walk from a distance. A visit would certainly have allowed us to experience nature from a completely new perspective.
Past the Saarschleifenlodge, where we made a stop at the breathtaking Saarschleife. From there, I set off on foot along the 1.6 km long Cloef Trail, which took me 200 metres up to the Cloef viewpoint. The view of the Saar Loop from there was simply breathtaking! Inge enjoyed the peace and quiet of the Saar loop during my trip to the Cloef.
The Saar Loop
The Saar Loop is an impressive natural phenomenon in Saarland and is considered one of the most beautiful river landscapes in Europe. It is located near the town of Mettlach and is a popular destination for tourists and nature lovers.
Geographical location and origin
The Saar Loop is located in Saarland, more precisely in the Saar-Hunsrück Nature Park. It was created when the Saar wound its way around the wooded hills in a narrow loop. This spectacular river bend was formed by thousands of years of erosion and today offers a breathtaking backdrop.
The Cloef viewpoint
The most famous vantage point is the Cloef, which lies high above the Saar Loop and offers a breathtaking panoramic view. The path there is well signposted and leads through the forest, with a climb of around 200 metres. The view of the Saar Loop from the Cloef is particularly impressive and a favourite subject for photographers.
Treetop walk Saarschleife
Another highlight is the Saarschleife treetop walk. This approximately 1,250 metre-long path takes visitors to lofty heights and offers unique perspectives of the landscape. The path ends in a viewing tower that reaches a height of 42 metres and offers a sweeping view of the region.
Cultural highlights
There are also cultural attractions near the Saar Loop. Particularly noteworthy is the town of Mettlach with its Villeroy & Boch World of Experience in the Old Abbey, which presents the history and art of porcelain.
Summary
The Saarschleife is an impressive natural wonder that delights visitors with its beauty and diversity. Whether for hikers, cyclists, nature lovers or those interested in culture – the Saarschleife offers something for everyone and is an absolute must-see for anyone visiting the Saarland.
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We crossed the imposing Saarbrücke Mettlach bridge to reach Mettlach, where we checked into the Hotel Restaurant Zum Schwan. After a well-earned rest, we explored the town on foot and visited sights such as the Villeroy & Boch Experience Centre in the Old Mettlach Abbey.
With a day full of adventure, culture and nature behind us, we looked back on today’s cycle tour with satisfaction.
Stage 2 from Mettlach to Trier – 42 km
We started the day with a delicious breakfast at the Hotel Zum Schwan in Mettlach. Well fortified and full of anticipation, we set off on our e-bikes.
The first stop was the Villeroy & Boch Experience Center in the Old Abbey of Mettlach, where you can learn a lot about the history and art of porcelain. At the Old Tower, we were able to marvel at the picturesque walls decorated with impressive frescoes and works of art. A stop at the Lutwinus Chapel in Mettlach gave us an insight into the religious history of the region.
The next stop was Gebr. Arweiler GmbH & Co. KG, where we were able to experience the combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern industry. From here, you cycle on through the idyllic landscapes of Saarland and Rhineland-Palatinate. We reached beautiful Saarburg, known for its picturesque old town and the impressive waterfall in the middle of the town. During a short photo stop and a stroll through the charming alleyways, we were able to enjoy the atmosphere of this town.
As the Saar flows into the Moselle near Konz, we were able to marvel at the impressive natural scenery before continuing our journey.
We arrived in Trier and checked into the Hotel Deutscher Hof straight away. After a short break, we explored the historic city on foot. After visiting the Electoral Palace and the palace gardens, we continued on to the imposing Constantine Basilica (Evangelical Church of the Redeemer), which is part of the Protestant parish of Trier. We visited the Episcopal Vicariate General of the Diocese of Trier and the Church of St. Gangolf.
The highlight of the day was the Porta Nigra, the well-preserved Roman city gate and landmark of Trier. We visited the wine festival in Trier, where we enjoyed a snack and got to know the local wine culture.
At the end of the day, we made a detour to St. George’s Fountain. Satisfied and full of new impressions, we ended the day and enjoyed a restful night.
Porta Nigra Trier
The Porta Nigra (Latin for Black Gate) in Trier is a former Roman city gate. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a well-known landmark of the city. The name Porta Nigra dates back to the Middle Ages. Another name in the Middle Ages was Porta Martis (the gate of Mars). The city gate was built around 180 AD as the northern entrance to the city of Augusta Treverorum (Augustus city in the land of the Treveri), today’s Trier.
Imperial Baths Trier
The Imperial Baths in Trier are the remains of a large Roman bathing complex, which can still be visited today as an impressive ruin. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with the other interesting buildings of Roman Trier. The complex was built around and after 300 AD as a monumental representative building for the emperors Constantius Chlorus and his son Constantine, who had made Trier their residence.
Stage 3 from Trier to Piesport – 46 km
Well-fuelled after a hearty breakfast and full of anticipation, we set off on today’s e-bike tour.
Our first stop took us to the impressive Imperial Baths, the remains of a large Roman bath. We marvelled at the architecture and history of the important Trier Cathedral, the oldest episcopal church in Germany. We cycled past the Porta Nigra to the Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge. As we crossed the bridge, we enjoyed the view of the Moselle. In Trier harbour, we were able to observe the bustling atmosphere and the passing ships.
On the way, we made a well-deserved stop at the “Zum Fährturm ’ restaurant. After a little refreshment, we enjoyed the view of the calmly flowing Moselle.
The tour continued through the idyllic landscapes of the municipality of Mehring and along the Moselle bend near Leiwen. Breathtaking views of the vineyards, which blend into the landscape, accompanied us along the way.
We followed the cycle path through Leiwen and took a coffee break in Neumagen-Dhron, the oldest wine village in Germany. Here we enjoyed the pleasant atmosphere and fortified ourselves for the onward journey.
Our next destination was Piesport, known for its famous Goldtröpfchen wine-growing region. We enjoyed the fantastic view of the terraced vineyards nestling on the slopes.
Once we arrived in Piesport, we checked into the cosy Hotel Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. On a walk through the old and new town, we discovered charming alleyways and historic buildings.
A particular highlight was a visit to the old Roman wine press, a historical site that shows how the Romans made wine over 2,000 years ago. We learnt interesting facts about the history and techniques of viticulture in the region.
We rounded off the day with a delicious dinner of local specialities and fine wine at the Goldtröpfchen wine hotel.
Neumagen Dhron
Neumagen-Dhron lays claim to the title of Germany’s oldest wine village alongside a number of other places. The winegrowing village of Neumagen was founded by the Romans around 2000 years ago as a stopover on the route from Trier to Koblenz along the Moselle. One of the sights is the archaeological trail, which is also regularly used for guided tours. In the centre of the district of Neumagen, there is a cast of the Roman wine ship right next to the old St. Peter’s Chapel and the Ausonius Garden.
Stage 4 from Piesport toTraben-Trabach – 40 km
Our day began with a delicious breakfast at the Goldtröpfchen Weinhotel, where we enjoyed a marvellous view of the Moselle. Well-fuelled and full of anticipation, we set off on today’s stage: our first destination was Bernkastel-Kues. We took a last look at the picturesque town of Piesport. After breathtaking views of the Moselle and the surrounding vineyards, we reached Bernkastel-Kues.
Bernkastel-Kues
Bernkastel-Kues is a well-known wine culture centre on the Middle Moselle. The town is a state-recognised health resort. Worth seeing in Bernkastel is the medieval market square with its gabled half-timbered houses from the 17th century, among which the narrow pointed house dating back to 1416 stands out in particular. A number of well-preserved buildings and the Renaissance town hall from 1608 are grouped around the St Michael’s Fountain from 1606.
We cycled on through the idyllic Moselle villages of Wehlen, past the Wehlener Sonnenuhr (giant sundial) to Zeltingen-Rachtig and under the imposing Hochmoselbrücke bridge to Erden. We took a short break in Erden and waited for the bus. Shortly before Traben-Trarbach, we took a well-earned break at the Beachhouse Mosel. The relaxed atmosphere by the water provided us with the perfect opportunity to recharge our batteries. After a short drive, we reached our Hotel Trabener Hof.
After a short break, we explored the charming little town. The route took us over the bridge through the historic Trarbach bridge gate to Trarbach. Unfortunately, it started to rain heavily. Despite the weather, we were not discouraged and visited the town tower, where we enjoyed the magnificent view despite the rain. The wet atmosphere gave the historical backdrop a special charm. Back in Traben, we fortified ourselves at the Central Hotel.
Despite the rain at the end, we were able to enjoy the beauty of the Moselle region and the hospitality in the Moselle towns of Bernkastel-Kues and Traben-Trarbach while cycling.
Stage 5 from Traben-Trabach to Cochem – 56 km
After a delicious breakfast at the Hotel Trabener Hof, we set off early for our penultimate stage. We discovered Enkirch, a gem of Moselle half-timbered architecture, and Zell, the wine village with the ‘Zeller Schwarze Katz’. We cycled around the Moselle loop near Bremm and took a short break in Ediger-Eller at the ‘Moselromantik-Hotel Zum Löwen Kurt Saffenreuther’.
Strengthened, we followed the cycle path, had to cross the Moselle at Senheim and cycled quickly to the small town of Beilstein, which proudly bears the nickname ‘Rothenburg on the Moselle’. We changed sides of the Moselle again, this time taking a ferry. During the crossing, we enjoyed the marvellous view of the ruins of Metternich Castle, a so-called spur castle situated on a 60 m high mountain spur above Beilstein that slopes steeply down on three sides.
We reached Cochen via the villages of Ellenz-Poltersdorf, Ernst and Sehl. Here it stood, the old imperial castle from the 11th century. After checking into the Hotel Cochemer Jung, we parked our e-bikes in the Kirchgasse in a rather dark garage. We were looking forward to exploring the picturesque town centre and market square. We enjoyed our dinner on the terrace of the Weinhexenkeller, in the sunshine and with a marvellous view of Cochem Castle and the Cochem promenade.
Zeller Schwarze Katz
Schwarze Katz refers to a large vineyard in the German Moselle wine-growing region and is part of the Burg Cochem area. In 1936, a fountain was erected in the old town of Zell in honour of the vineyard and the black cat. This fountain also adorns the first note of the Zell regional currency, the Zeller.
Reichsburg Cochem
The Reichsburg Cochem is a castle complex in the Rhineland-Palatinate town of Cochem on the Moselle. It is the town’s landmark and stands on a mountain cone more than 100 metres above the town, visible from afar.
Stage 6 from Cochem to Koblenz – 49 km
Off we go to Koblenz – After a pleasant breakfast at the Hotel Cochemer Jung, we picked up our e-bikes from the Kirchgasse and cycled to the left of the Moselle through the picturesque wine villages of Kobern and Gondorf. Shortly before Winningen we had to make a short stop due to a rain shower under the A61 motorway.
In Metternich we crossed the Moselle on the Kurt-Schumacher bridge and cycled to the Deutsches Eck. The route in Koblenz was full of surprises, so we had to swerve abruptly from the cycle path onto the road.
Finally we reached the Deutsches Eck. We enjoyed the wide view of the marvellous Rhine valley and cycled further along the Rhine past the valley station of the Koblenz cable car – Skyglide Event Deutschland GmbH, along the Adenauer Ufer past the Pegelhaus and the Electoral Palace of Koblenz to the Hotel Bremer.
After checking in and storing our bikes in a garage nearby, we made our way into the historic city centre, which was well worth a visit. We enjoyed our evening meal at the Ristorante Pizzeria La Mamma-Koblenz and reflected on the stages we had covered.
Deutsches Eck Koblenz
The Deutsches Eck is a headland where the Moselle flows into the Rhine in Koblenz. A monumental equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I was erected here in 1897. The base of the monument served as a memorial to German unity from 1953 to 1990.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress Koblenz
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress has been in existence since the 16th century and was originally a Prussian fortification opposite the mouth of the Moselle near Koblenz. Since 2002, the fortress has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site ‘Upper Middle Rhine Valley Cultural Landscape’. The grounds in front of the fortress will be part of the event area for the 2011 Federal Horticultural Show in Koblenz.
The Moselle
From its source at the Col de Bussang in the Vosges to its mouth at the Deutsches Eck in Koblenz, the Moselle covers 520 kilometres with a gradient of 676 metres. The river flows through France over a distance of 278 kilometres, then forms a natural border between Luxembourg and Germany for 36 kilometres before flowing into the Rhine after 206 kilometres in Rhineland-Palatinate. From Thionville in Lorraine, the Moselle is navigable for 392 kilometres. 15 barrages with locks compensate for the difference in altitude.
Return journey from Koblenz
Our wonderful cycle tour ended today in Koblenz. After breakfast at the Hotel Brenner and checking out, we took a short tour of the city before waiting for our train at the station.
We said goodbye to the varied Saar Cycle Route and the winding Moselle Cycle Route. A Deutsche Bahn IC train took us along the Rhine past the Lorelei to Stuttgart. We travelled the last stretch to Tamm on the S-Bahn.
It was great!